This is Sennheiser IE800 DIY KIT for new hands to build earphones. With basic soldering and gluing skills and the state of art components offered by us, you can make your own IE800 in 1~2 hours.
Be afraid of the risk? No problem, choose the Assembling Option and let us make it for you (meaning you get a handy IE800).
Summary of the IE800 kit
- 4 outstanding dynamic drivers from top IEMs: IE800, Monster Turbine Pro, B&O H5 and Titanium Ultra-low THD (Total Harmonic Distortion ) Unit (designed by Earphone DIY Labs)
- 5 cables with state of the art performance and durability
- 4 X 5 combinations well covers any use scenario (office, street, home or personal studio) and sound characters (optimized for rock, pop, movie…)
- Unbeatable price – we source separated components from ODM directly, and you save 80%+ budget
- Professional acoustic materials to further fine tune the sound per your personal flavor
- Support from Earphone DIY Labs for any issue in your DIY journey
If you are an earphone DIY guru with an golden ear, we encourage you to our Sennheiser IE800 DIY KIT for DIY Elites which offers all the advanced components to fine tune the sound, and professional measurements you may need to push your work to extreme.
How does this IE800 kit sound?
It largely depends the dynamic driver you choose. And it makes the build very much like the original IEM – we measured and observed 95%+ similarity in the Frequency Response with the original IEM.
With the IE800 XWB Driver
So you pick the IE800 XWB driver and build it correctly, you will get following.
- Sound signature: Reasonably balanced throughout the highs and mids, with a gradual emphasis towards low bass.
- Bass: Awesome extension to 5Hz (see our measurement below) and kick for such a small driver. Some cases you can “feel’ the drum sound massaging your ear canal but nor “hear” it, a very magic experience. Good clarity, control and definition at low to medium volume, but ultimately a bit too bloated. More emphasis on low bass than on mid/upper bass. Very quick spectral decay and minimized the interference to mids, though there’s a gradual decrease of clarity/control in bass and increase of lower midrange warmth as you crank up the volume.
- Mids: Extremely clear and hyper-detailed, but not at all in an aggressive or artificially dissecting way (note the original XWB driver is with a 5dB peak on 6-8 kHz. We do same thing as Sennheiser to suppress it by damping in the front canal). The mids are probably the most natural and refined of all IEMs due to extremely low THD (<0.03%). Very good timbre with voices and acoustic instruments. Vocals in particular have a sublime quality of just „being there“, eerily lifelike and tangible.
- Highs: Almost at eye level with the mids, extended, smooth and highly resolving. The level of detail is stunning at first, but on careful listening treble turns out to be slightly too thin for a realistic timbre. Depending on fit, there’s also a tendency to exaggerate sibilant, though as a whole, treble is far from sounding harsh or overly aggressive.
- Transparency: Source transparency is excellent throughout the midrange and highs, but noticeably impaired by exaggerated bass. However, it’s worth mentioning that on the go the IE800’s bass boost compensates for the masking effect of ambient noise, and perceived transparency is better than in quiet surroundings.
- Dynamics / Soundstage / Separation / Imaging: The Senn‘s super-clear mids convey a feeling of directness and intimacy without much forward projection, but the driver‘s good dynamics make for excellent depth and layering. Owing to their very high resolution, the IE800’s separation is impeccable, with well defined space for instruments and vocalists. Stage width and presence of a center image vary a bit between downward and over-ea. Overall I’d characterize the IE800’s soundstage as neither overly spacious like the IE8’s, nor lacking or closed-in, but above all with a quite extraordinary sense of depth.
With the Turbine-Pro Driver
Here is the impression with Turbine-Pro Driver:
- Sound signature: It would be very appealing to some listeners than others – namely those who find the bassy and highly blended sound to sound natural, or at least refreshing. It is an excellent earphone – clear and refined, with plenty of bass for most listeners and treble quantity to match.
- Bass: The bass is punchy while rather controlled and non-intrusive. It carries good depth and body with natural-sounding attack and decay. Resolution is impressive as well, with individual notes distinguishable all the way down.
- Mids: Follow the typical Monster Turbine formula – smooth, full-bodied, and neither forward nor recessed. On the whole, the midrange is lush and musical. Vocals come across strong and vocal timbre is quite natural. Sibilant is kept to a minimum,.
- Highs: The treble is reasonably strong and carries some sparkle without becoming overly edgy or fatiguing. It still doesn’t sound as crisp as the treble of certain BA-based earphones or the more analytical dynamics (RE0, RE252) but performs better than the MTPG without adding much potential for listening fatigue.
- Transparency: The presentation is not the largest among all IEMs but it is quite adequate in both depth and width.
- Dynamics / Soundstage / Separation / Imaging: The imaging and positioning do not possess the pinpoint accuracy certain other earphones are capable of providing but, like that of the MTPG, the sound of the MTPC is extremely blended, which may actually seem more natural to some compared to the Sennheiser IE8 with its football-field-sized soundstage or the Westone UM3X with its holographic separation. The same goes for individual notes, which sound slightly ‘rounded’ with the Monster Turbine earphones, as opposed to the crips and highly-defined notes produced by some of the BA-based in-ears.
With the B&O BEOPLAY H5 Driver
Here is the impression with B&O BEOPLAY H5 Drivers:
- Sound signature: The H5 offers a surprisingly balanced sound, straight out of the box. The headphones’ 6.4mm dynamic driver never pushes too hard. Mids and highs are balanced and deliver a soundstage that works surprisingly well across a variety of genres.
- Bass: The bass is extremely strong and powerful. The headphones offer plenty of bass that should be enough for even mega-bass fans, and while some might find the amount of bass a little much, it generally sounds quite good here, especially on bass-heavy songs. It also adds a little extra oomph to non bass-heavy songs, like AC/DC’s Back In Black.
- Mids: The midrange is also quite well tuned. It’s important to note that these headphones are not built for purists out there — the sound is heavily altered, but it’s altered to sound good to the average person. In these headphones some of that take the form of a slightly scooped high-mids, and there’s a good amount of low-mids to help make the sound reasonably warm.
- Highs: The high-end is crisp and concise, and B&O has done a good job at ensuring that the highs aren’t overpowering or piercing.
- Dynamics / Soundstage / Separation / Imaging: The soundstage on the headphones is decent, and they generally don’t distort easily unless at unreasonably high volumes.
With the Titanium Ultra-low THD Unit Driver
Here is the impression with our Titanium Diaphragm Ultra-Low Distortion Drivers:
- Sound signature: It has a deep, punchy bass without sounding boomy, and a clear, even mid-range. The mid-range is rather forward bringing a bit of excess emphasis to vocals and lead instruments, and the treble range carries quite a bit of detail and presence. Overall, it’s a decent choice for most genres, especially those for for vocal-centric music, but won’t be the ideal choice for bass heavy ones.
- Bass:It has a very good bass. The Low-Frequency Extension reaches 20Hz with reasonable -2.5dB drop <20Hz. Low-bass, responsible for the thump and rumble common to bass-heavy music means it provides just the right amount of sub-bass. The mid-bass, responsible for the body of bass guitars and the punch of kick drums is hyped by 2.5dB. Also, high-bass, responsible for warmth is not overemphasized, which makes the overall bass rather punchy, quick and clean.
- Mids: The mid-range performance is very good. The drop in low-mid is actually the continuation of the high-bass under-emphasis. This makes the vocals and lead instruments slightly thin, and makes the overall mix very clear. The flat in mid-mid and high-mid means the mid-range sounds very balanced, that is, the vocals and lead instruments are neutrally positioned in the mix.
- Highs: The treble range performance is excellent. The slow 5dB rise in low-treble offers great detail and presence of vocals and lead instruments. On the other hand, the drop at at 7KHz and 10KHz correctly avoid the sibilant in the vocals and cymbals.
- Dynamics / Soundstage / Separation / Imaging: The imaging performance is excellent and ensures a tight bass and a transparent treble reproduction. Additionally, the L/R drivers are exceptionally well-matched (<1.5dB), which is important for the accurate placement and localization of objects (instruments, voice, footsteps), in the stereo image.
How shall I pick the driver unit?
We’d advice you to carefully study or try the original earphones if you have access to them (e.g., you can try in Sennheiser retail stores nearby). The impressions we provide in this post could be subjective and might not 100% fit your unique flavor – and also note original IE800 may not fit you most. Please feel free to send email to firstname.lastname@example.org and get professional advice before you place an order.
Advanced DIY may want to see many measurements and curves to make a choice, while for beginners just want a decent sound, here are simple principles:
- If you want the highest resolution, crystal clear vocal and the best treble, go for the IE800 XWB driver.
- If you are a bass-head and want the sub-bass messaging your ear canal when playing e-games or watching action movies, listen sound tracks, pick the Monster Turbine Pro driver. It has a typical U-curve frequency response and boost heavily on super bass and treble
- Want the best female vocal? You shall use the B&O H5 driver unit and never forget the sweetness.
- The ultra-low THD Titanium driver offer you the least distortion and the most fidelity to the original music. If you have broad spectrum, or not sure which one to pick, this driver will never not disappoint you. “And it is also my personal favorite!” said the founder of Earphone DIY Labs
Due to the physical size limitation, IE800 kit can not hold >8mm diameter drivers (original Sennheiser IE800 XWB is 7mm diameter), the result is it’s very picky to ear pads. It’s a common issue for all IEMs using micro drivers. And the result is you have to find one perfectly fitting your ear canal, otherwise the low bass would be seriously impaired.
The good news is we solve it for you and for free (start from 9/1, 2018)! We include following 2 pairs of earpads in the kit after measuring tens of different models:
- 2-flange Silicon earpads (black, mid size) which doubles the sealing than normal earpads – made in Germany and adopted by Sennheiser IEMs
- Memory foam ear pads (black, mid size) – super noise cancellation and airtight, get get you the best performance – made in Germany
How can you trust this IE800 kit?
Email to email@example.com if you want the original measurement of your KIT – we test the Frequency Response, Cumulative Spectral Decay, Burst and Energy Decay, Impulse Response using standard IEC 711 coupler, customized sound card and ARTA software – and we can offer both snapshot or raw data file.
What’re in this DIY KIT? Why it is for beginners?
The KIT include everything you need to build the IE800 IEM.
- 2 X Dynamic Driver Units – chose from 4 options per your personal flavor
- 1 DIY cable – chose from 5 options per your personal flavor and use scenario
- 1 pair of Sennheiser IE800 shell (mandatory option)
- 4 pairs of earpads – one 2-flange and 3 (s/m/l) pairs memory foam ear pads
To reduce difficulty for beginners, we have the most tricky works done
- the driver is pre-installed in the housing
- the anti-dust net is pre-installed
- Sound is fine tuned, incl. adjusting driver position, apply damping materials in the front canal if necessary
How shall I pick the cable?
3 steps and you can make a smart decision, or send email to firstname.lastname@example.org and get professional advice.
- Do I need a MIC? Some cables are with and some are without MIC, note the difference and make a selection.
- Do I need high price cables with like 6N OCC or silver plated? If you can not tell what’s the shortcoming in the sound of the $30 cheap IEMs you got from airport stores, pick the cheapest one. High price cables won’t dramatically improve the sound quality as the drivers do.
- Do I need braided cable? If you are used to listen music when walking, YES. Even the original IE800 is blamed for offering a terrible cable with heavy Stethoscope Effect, and braided cable can greatly reduce it by absorbing the echo.
These are 5 cables we provide in this kit, choose one from the ordering options.
OK, now how can I build it?
Our IE800 DIY course V1 was a momentum on Imgur by attracting 120,000+ viewers and hundreds of DIYers had made it successful. We are very excited to announce the V2 course. The entire process takes 2 hours including 1hour waiting glue drying. AMA on Reddit u/earphonediylabs or contact our service account for any issue. Note in this kit, you can skip the most risky 3 steps.
Step 1 Install the driver to the housing
You will need glues like this E8000, B7000 or other slow dry glues – easy to find in stores nearby.
Then you need to apply the washer to the driver – note not to block the holes on the driver
Apply some glue around the washer and stick the drivers to the housing
Step 2 Wiring
Wire the cable in the order as illustrated below.
And stick the tiny pipe to the shell – you shall use 402 or other glue working on ceramic. E8000/B7000 can not stick on ceramic and too soft after drying.
Step 3 Soldering
Now connect (solder) the cable to the driver – note the polarity of the driver and don’t make mistake
Before soldering, make sure you fix its position on the vice clamp – hi-end drivers with strong magnet and may stick to your soldering iron!
Step 4 Assembling the shell
Now stick the anti-dust net to the shell
And stick the stainless steel beads to the backend
Install the earpad
Now glue the front and back side of the shell together, and press them in the vice clamp for >30min.
And done! Eventually you get these nice IEMs.
How if I have special requirements?
Please leave your requirements in the ordering note and we’ll handle them accordingly, or contact our service account for any issue.
Users’ feed backs
We‘ll collect users’ impressions of this kit and building experiences
And users’ builds
More to be updated.
Collected from hundreds DIYers building this kit.
[Q1] How to ensure cable being durable
A: my experience is the glue and the quality of the cable/jacket is the key. For DIY cables with open ends, you can pick those with Nylon strings inside. And you may use strong A/B glue to ensure all joint glued firmly. And always use a gold plated, strong connector, which won’t cost few $ more.
[Q2] About warrant
A: We grantee the quality of any thing we sell. However you lose warrant as long as you cut/solder/glue… DIY on it. We can not grantee any mistake in our customers’ DIY process.
[Q3] About the glue
A: E8000 glue is mostly recommended, and you can find everywhere on Amazon or Ebay. E8000 is for sealing the gap around the dynamic with the front cover.
J-B glue is recommended to glue the ceramic back cover and the front cover, E8000 won’t work with ceramic at all. Again, you can find J-B glue everywhere on Amazon.
[Q4] why the bass is not strong and the sound sounds very “thin”?
A: the pad may not fit your ear canal and there is a gap in between. it will seriously leak bass and a common problem to most in-ear earphone.s You shall try different size of ear pad and find the best one working on you. You will be surprised to see how different the bass will be simply by changing ear pads.
[Q5] why the sound sounds abnormal/small/wired…?
A: There are some mistake in your DIY process including but not limited to:
- Glue getting into the driver
- Overheating the driver in soldering
- Wire is not well connected
- Wrong wring sequence (e.g., polarity)